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reviewed on: February 19, 2010
It’s interesting that we have so many ethnic restaurants in this country that are based on European and Asian cuisines, and so few that reflect the food makeup of one of our closest neighbors, South America. Oh, I get it that immigration to America has largely been from the old world, but consider the Mexican influence here, which is considerable. And yet, somehow, the Panama Canal seems to be the cutoff point for food trends making it across our southern border.
To be sure, there are a few places in Denver where we’ve enjoyed pizzas from Argentina, great Brazilian cazuelas and, of course their churrascarias offering endless portions of flavorful charcoal-grilled meats. And there have been a few Chilean restaurants which have made it (outnumbered by those that have not) but, by and large, the food of South America remains a mystery to the people of Denver.
I have to admit that the few encounters I’ve had with the food of our southern neighbors had me feeling pretty smug about my knowledge of their food. But then I dropped by Empanada Express Grill in Golden, and developed a whole new appreciation for the food of Venezuela.
Three’s nothing fancy about this restaurant, and you’ll have to look carefully to find it, even if you have a GPS along as I did. If you find the Domino’s Pizza at the forked corner of East Street and South Golden Road, you’re just a few feet from the entrance. The restaurant itself consists of a long, narrow triangular space with lots of windows to let in the sunshine, a few tropical plants, and a counter for ordering. Despite its simplicity, it has a nice, cozy feel, and the owners obviously take a lot of pride in what they offer.
And what they offer is a menu that features empanadas, arepas, cachapas and hallacas, all of which will win your heart with the first bite. Both the arepas and the empanadas are made from a corn-based dough. The arepas are baked circles that open like a pita to receive a variety of fillings from a simple blend of cheeses to seasoned shredded chicken or beef, black beans, scrambled eggs, avocado, etc. In short, picture it as a sandwich which can be filled with anything you can imagine. They are wonderfully light and, considering that the most expensive ones are $4.75, and one will fill you up, remarkably affordable.
The empanadas are made from the same dough, but it’s rolled into a circle about six inches in diameter, filled with many of the same fillings as the arepas plus a few additional ones like seafood and peppers, then it’s folded over like a calzone and deep-fried. The result is a crunchy, golden-brown pocket sandwich that is good beyond description. Again, with a top price of $4.99, this fits into just about any budget
The hallacas are Venezuelan-style tamales wrapped in banana leaves before being steamed, and the cachapas are pancakes made from kernels of corn that have been pureed with milk and sugar before being fried and topped with melted cheese.
Don’t go expecting anything fancy. The food is served in paper-lined plastic baskets, and the knives and forks are plastic. The food takes a bit of time to make its way from the small kitchen because nothing is cooked until it’s ordered. There’s no alcohol, but they do have an intriguing selection of South American soft drinks and fruit juices.
As small as it is, and as informal as it is, Empanada Express Grill is an adventure worth driving to from anywhere in the metro area.
Empanada Express Grill
2600 East Street, Golden
720-226-4701
Empanadaexpress.com
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