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reviewed on: November 6, 2009
Chinese cuisine has probably suffered more from “Americanization” than any other. Part of it is undoubtedly because the ingredients required for Chinese food couldn’t readily be found in this country, and also because the taste and texture of Chinese food was alien to American palates. So the Chinese substituted local ingredients, and created dishes that were closer what Westerners were used to. When I was a kid, our family got Chinese take-out nearly once a week, and I grew up believing that the bland, overcooked, over-sauced Cantonese fare was the entire extent of Chinese food.
Things have changed greatly over the intervening years as we’ve been introduced to other Asian cuisines, but the Chinese food available in this country remained a far cry from what you’d enjoy if you visited China. Now that’s all beginning to change. If you’re willing to step outside of your comfort zone you can find Chinese food from all regions of that country. And, while I’m the first to admit that some authentic Chinese dishes I’ve had will probably never pass my lips again, I’ve also discovered some wonderful items that I actually begin to crave if I go too long without a fix.
Until now, if you wanted to experience the full gamut of classic Asian fare, your best bet was to cruise Federal Boulevard south of Alameda, but the opening of Chopsticks China Bistro at the southwest corner of Yosemite and Belleview has brought Beijing to the burbs.
Chopsticks took over the space that most recently was home to O’Shea’s Tavern, and it’s worth a visit just to see how an Irish pub morphed into a Chinese restaurant. Actually, much of the restaurant remains the same. The space is considerably brighter thanks to a new coat of paint and, while the décor is definitely Chinese, it’s been done tastefully using minimal artwork and plants. The bar, which was the centerpiece of O’Shea’s, remains, as does the front room that’s perfect for a private party. A large enclosed space at the rear of the restaurant now contains a round table which can seat up to sixteen people for a banquet Chinese style.
Which brings us to the food. Traditional Chinese fare in this country has consisted of a variety of sauces which were combined with various meats and vegetables to create the different dishes--sort of like an Italian restaurant where a selection of pasta types are combined with six or seven different sauces to produce a multitude of selections. The type of cooking practiced at Chopsticks involves creating each dish from scratch, so you’ll find a lot more intricacy in the flavors and far less sauce. And while some of the dishes may have familiar names, you’re likely to find them to be quite different from what you’ve enjoyed elsewhere.
There are right around 100 different items on the menu, ranging from traditional rice and noodle plates to exciting dishes of seafood, duck, beef, pork, lamb and chicken. And there’s a good selection of meatless items for vegetarians. Most notable among the dishes we enjoyed were the Red Chili Oil Wontons—small pockets filled with a mix of pork and vegetables, and served with a chili oil sauce with just a hint of heat, and the Three Cup Sauce Chicken with Basil—a hotpot combination of chicken with basil and ginger in a savory brown sauce. It’s disappointing not to be able to try a lot more of the food, but it gives you a reason to return.
Entrée prices range from $10-$13, making this an extremely affordable evening out. Parking at the front of the restaurant is limited, but there are acres of free parking at the rear.
Chopsticks China Bistro
5117 S. Yosemite Street (southwest corner of Yosemite and Belleview)
720-489-9888
http://www.chopsticksbistro.com/
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