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reviewed on: September 18, 2009
Throughout history, the story of any ethnic group has always been reflected in the food they and their ancestors ate. Of course, a lot of what they consumed was a direct result of what was available in their part of the world, but the really amazing thing is that, one foodstuff that cuts across all peoples in all countries is bread. How is it that our ancestors all around the world discovered that if you ground up wheat, mixed it with water into a goopy paste, allowed it to ferment with naturally present yeast, and then heated it, you ended up with something that was pretty darned good? And, taking it a step further, if you flattened your sticky glob of dough before cooking it, you ended up with a tidy little circle of bread that you could wrap around just about anything else you ate to create a convenient meal you could carry with you on your travels. Anyone who thinks wraps are a modern-day invention is being delusional.
Which brings us to Saj Mediterranean Grill, which recently opened in the Streets at Southglenn. By now, most of us have been exposed to pita bread, but equally popular throughout the Middle East is Lebanese saj, thinner than pita, without the pocket, and probably best compared to the Mexican tortilla. The basic concept at Saj is similar to other ethnic quick-service restaurants—you pass down a counter and create your own saj wrap or pita sandwich or plate, choosing which items you want to include or exclude. In that regard, what they’re doing at Saj has been done before. But there are a number of things that set Saj apart, and make it a must.
First is the automated production line for the saj, which is fascinating to watch. Water, flour and yeast are accurately measured out and combined to create little nuggets of dough which are carried away on a conveyor belt. The trip from the beginning of the line to the end is accurately timed so that the dough has just enough time to rise before it is automatically run through a set of rollers then given a final shaping by hand before being slapped on a hot griddle for about thirty seconds. All right, I confess I’m easily amused, but something about watching this process just tickled the engineer in my soul.
All wraps or plates begin with a choice of hummus or baba ghanooj, and then the real fun begins as you add chicken or beef shawarma, lettuce, tomatoes, pickles (including those wonderful Middle Eastern pickled turnips), spicy fried potatoes, and rice. The easiest way to approach this is no matter what you’re asked, just say “yes.” You simply can’t go wrong. Finally you’ll get to choose a sauce from a selection that includes classic yogurt and cucumber sauce, garlic sauce, tahini sauce and a zingy jalapeno pesto.
Saj has a lot going for it. First, it’s fun. Second, the food is really good and flavorful. If you’re a vegetarian, no problem—just leave out the meat. And the thing I like best is that, unlike some other quick-service restaurants I’ve been to, I didn’t have that overstuffed feeling by the time I’d finished. Lastly, you leave with the impression that you’ve had a meal that really was nutritious—no guilt trips when you visit with the kids or grandkids.
Prices vary depending on whether you get a wrap or a plate, but basically range from $6 to $8.
Saj Mediterranean Grill
6955 S. York St. (Streets at Southglenn, directly south of Whole Foods)
303-797-8000
http://sajgrill.com/
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