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reviewed on: July 24, 2009
This time of year, there’s nothing more delightful than taking a ride along Highway 285 from Morrison to…well, as far as you want to go. The road is fast and wide, you’re surrounded by the foothills with a blue Colorado sky overhead, and it’s just a relaxing, excursion.
Of course, if you want to eat somewhere along the way, your choices are pretty limited. The chains have made a pretty good incursion into that part of the world but, if you’re in the mood for something that you can’t get right here in Denver, you don’t have much choice. Over the last year, I’ve had calls from listeners about Lucille’s of Jersey in Conifer but, sadly, I let my own preconceptions of restaurants in that part of the world get in the way, so I put off a visit until this week. Now all I can say is shame on me.
Everything about Lucille’s is stunning. The spacious interior with its soft, relaxing colors, the Italian artwork on the walls, the lighting, the broad windows that admit views of the surrounding foothills, the soft Italian music in the background, the flowers, the baby grand piano that is used on the weekends and during brunch on Sunday, and the fireplace which I’m sure is delightful on a chilly fall evening. Lucille’s is one of those places where you just keep craning your neck around to take it all in, all the while feeling that you can never take it all in.
When it comes to the food, I scarcely know where to begin. Lucille’s bills itself as an Italian steakhouse, and steaks occupy a prominent place on the menu. There’s a New York strip, a Porterhouse, rib-eye, and a filet and, while it technically doesn’t count as a steak, there’s prime rib Thursday through Saturday. But Lucille’s is so much more than steak. There are a variety of traditional pasta dishes, several risotto selections, a goodly array of seafood dishes including a classic Calamari Fra Diavolo, which you don’t find much anymore, and five traditional veal dishes—all reflective of the Italian restaurants of the east coast.
For an appetizer we passed on the Stuffed Artichokes and the Clams Casino, both favorites, and opted for the Eggplant Rollatini, a baked dish consisting of thin slices of eggplant wrapped around mozzarella and napped with a delightful marinara sauce.
The Veal Francese came as a perfectly sautéed dish of veal scaloppini with a wine/lemon/butter sauce. You simply can’t beat the flavor of these classic dishes when they’re prepared properly. Our second choice was one of those timeless Italian comfort dishes which I haven’t had since forever—Pork Chops and Sweet Vinegar Peppers. This is one of those dishes that, once you’ve enjoyed it, will haunt your dreams until the next time you can find it on a menu—two large pork chops with a vinegary sauce of red peppers.
As good as the entrees were, the sides were equally wonderful. On this night they consisted of as good a rice as I’ve had anywhere and a sauté of green beans, onions and bacon. When’s the last time you ate all of the accompanying sides to any dish?
Lucille’s of Jersey is by the Safeway store in the Conifer Town Center, which is just a stone’s throw from the highway. But , if you don’t know where it is, it can be difficult to find. Before you go, please get a Google map, use a GPS, or get exact directions when you call for a reservation. You’ll save yourself a lot of aggravation. But if you’re a fan of east-coast style Italian fare, you’re gonna love it.
Lucille’s of Jersey
27175 Main St. (Conifer Town Center by the Safeway)
Conifer
303-838-4900
http://www.lucillesofjersey.com/
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