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reviewed on: July 17, 2009
It’s been nearly a year since we first discovered Hospoda, the diminutive Czech restaurant and bar at 38th and Wynkoop. And, while we fell in love with it immediately, and had lots of calls from listeners who also were seduced by the incredible food that emerged from this miniscule kitchen, the restaurant lacked broad appeal. Certainly its location worked against it. Many people I talk to hear the word Wynkoop, and immediately assume it’s close to downtown but believe me, you wouldn’t want to hike from Union Station to Hospoda. The thing that really kept Hospoda from being a hit was that they only did lunch Tuesday through Friday. So, while the people who worked in that industrial neighborhood patronized it, only those who had the luxury of unlimited time for a weekday lunch hour bothered to seek it out.
These days Hospoda has added dinner to the menu Tuesday through Saturday, and while they stop serving food at seven, it’s worth heading out to dinner a bit early to enjoy this classic cuisine. That being said, I continue to find myself in an awkward position when I recommend Hospoda to anyone because I feel like I’m apologizing for the suggestion. Don’t be put off by the location. Don’t worry about the less than attractive appearance of the outside of the building. Don’t expect an upscale dining room, or even one that reflects Czech culture. The dining room is quaint and endearing, with wood-paneled walls, clothless tables, and a hardwood floor. And a pool table. It’s most attractive feature is the bar, outlined in brick and sporting a jaunty cowhide covering. In short, don’t go expecting a luxurious dining experience. Go because the food at Hospoda is so outstandingly good--and inexpensive.
We began dinner with an order of Potato Pancakes. Having at last 25 percent German in my DNA, I’ve eaten and loved potato pancakes my entire life. But I’ve never had potato pancakes this wonderful anywhere before. Thick, dense, hearty, fried to a light golden brown, and served with a side of sour cream, these were pure heaven. Then our server suggested we try a side of Green Chili with the pancakes. I know, green chili is not Czech, but neither are the Buffalo Wings or the Quesadillas that keep it company on the menu. Anyway, I’m now totally hooked on Czech-style potato pancakes with sour cream and green chili.
The rest of the menu is very limited. See, there I go apologizing again. The Czech items are limited to Beef Stroganoff, Breaded Schnitzel—your choice of pork or chicken, and a daily special that includes dishes like beef goulash, chicken paprikash and roast pork loin. The evening we had dinner, the special was the goulash, so we ordered that along with the stroganoff. Both came over noodles, and in such ample portions that we weren’t able to finish. Of course, being an adult means you can not finish your dinner, and still have dessert—in this case a slab of yummy apple streudel with ice cream.
As I mentioned before, the food at Hospoda is not only good, but super inexpensive. No entrée is over $10, so you can throw in a glass of Czech beer and still get away for next to nothing.
Hospoda is very easy to find—the second time you go. The first time it’s easy to get turned around and lost, so I suggest you either print out a map from the internet, use your GPS, or call and get specifics.
Hospoda Bar & Bistro
3763 Wynkoop
303-292-5025
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