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reviewed on: June 19, 2009
This wasn’t my first visit. I’d been there when the restaurant first opened in the 70’s as the Pieces of Eight. Then I went back again when it was Faded Glory, and quite a few times over the years when it was Simms Landing. And here I was back there again this week, as the restaurant at 6th and Simms, with indisputably the best view in Denver, resurrected itself as Simms Steakhouse.
Maybe it was because I’d seen it so many times, or perhaps it was because the restaurant represented a concept from another era but, whatever the reason, the décor was way overdue for a change. And change it they did, from a somewhat rustic, seagoing atmosphere to an ultra-sleek, modern steakhouse awash with eye-catching touches and bright colors. There’s a brand new lounge area that’s the perfect place to unwind with a cocktail before dinner, as well as a semiprivate banquet room for up to forty people, separated from the main dining room by an impressive wall of wine, and boasting its own kitchen. And throughout there’s been a general facelift that’s created a warm, inviting place to dine with an upscale feel.
We followed the hostess to a four-top next to an ultra-modern fireplace where flames flickered and danced across the hearth, pausing to admire the stunning view of downtown and the expanses to the north and east. How far could we see? Far enough to easily pick out both Buckley Field and DIA, which is probably far enough for all practical purposes.
Once seated, because we were wearing dark clothes, our server immediately offered to replace the white napkins with black. Nice touch. Then, within moments, we each received a ramekin containing a freshly baked mini-loaf of astoundingly good chewy bread. When you’re trying to set yourself above the competition, it’s little things like this that make the difference.
Appetizers run the usual steakhouse gamut from crab cakes to oysters, to shrimp cocktails and calamari. But there are some unique items here as well, like Crab and Spinach Stuffed Shells, and an intriguing tuna appetizer pairing tuna tartare with seared peppered tuna, wasabi and avocado. We opted for the escargot, sizzling in garlic butter and served with puff pastry caps.
Entrees too follow the tried-and-true offerings of steaks and prime rib, along with an equal number of seafood dishes. But here too, Simms Steakhouse sets itself apart by serving only Certified Angus Beef, and adding a Bone-in Buffalo Ribeye. We selected a 16-ounce ribeye that was amazingly flavorful and fork tender.
On the seafood side, you can choose traditional whole Maine Lobster, Rock Lobster Tail, King Crab or Shrimp Scampi. But again, you’ll find creative offerings like Miso Glazed Salmon, Halibut with Lobster Cream Sauce, or our choice, the Hazlenut Crusted Rainbow Trout that came topped with sautéed shrimp and a delicate lemon beurre blanc sauce.
On the whole, the switch from Simms Landing to Simms Steakhouse is a good one, breathing new vitality into a tired concept. The setting has always been a draw for diners, and now, as the only real steakhouse in that part of town, Simms Steakhouse is poised to become a major player.
Simms Steakhouse serves dinner nightly, and a buffet brunch on Sunday. They offer free valet parking every evening.
Simms Steakhouse
11911 W. 6th Avenue (northwest corner of 6th and Simms)
303-237-0465
www.simmssteakhouse.com
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