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reviewed on: March 20, 2009
OK, I said, trying to convince myself more than anything, that anyone who would name their restaurant Moe’s Original Bar B Que and put it in a simple storefront on South Broadway in downtown Englewood, that also housed an eight-lane bowling alley, has to be pretty confident of their product.
Now, if I were in Memphis, Kansas City, or anywhere south of the Mason-Dixon line, I probably wouldn’t have thought twice about it. Down there, a barbecue joint can pop up anywhere, and it’s hard to find a bad one. But this is Denver, where a lot of the folks who are into making barbecue are people who’ve dabbled in smoked meats long enough that they consider themselves experts. And while there’s a fair amount of good product in our town, I’ve sampled some that I’d just as soon I hadn’t. Then again, Moe’s had been recommended by several callers to the show, and my listeners are right more than they’re wrong, so in I went.
There’s no mistaking the aroma of a barbecue restaurant, and it hits you instantly at Moe’s. Add to that the mellow wail of piped-in blues music in the background, and my confidence began to return. Moe’s is a long, narrow shotgun of a room. Running along the right hand wall, front to back, is an attractive bar that’s more of a lunch counter where you can grab a quick bite without tying up a table. The left hand wall, front to back, is covered with colorful posters, some of concerts, some of music groups, some of well known barbecue restaurants. Throughout the room are simple, unadorned tables for two and four, and at the very rear is a stage where Moe’s hosts live bands after nine on Friday and Saturday evenings. In short, it’s nothing fancy, but what self-respecting barbecue joint is?
So, I got some barbecue and, at that point, any misgivings I may have had about Moe’s evaporated completely. This is as good ‘cue as I’ve had anywhere in the country. The ribs are incredibly meaty and flavorful with just the right chew and, literally, falling off the bones. The pulled pork was equally delightful, heavy with the taste of smoke from apple and black cherry wood which Moe’s uses. Moe’s also smokes chicken and turkey, neither of which are among my favorite meats for smoking. If you like smoked poultry go for it, but I’ll stick with the pork.
As far as sides, Moe’s offers baked beans, slaw and potato salad regularly, and a range of other items like collard greens with homemade pepper sauce, fried green tomatoes and macaroni and cheese, all made from family recipes, on a rotating basis. The day I dropped by, they were serving a sweet potato casserole that was unbelievably delicious.
Moe’s serves their barbecue as sandwiches or as platters at incredibly reasonable prices. Nine dollars will get you any sandwich along with a drink and two sides. And the price includes tax! Platters are in the ten to thirteen dollar range, also including tax, and the platters also come with a slab of really tasty cornbread that’s been lightly toasted on the chargrill.
Oh, and about that bowling alley, the reason Moe’s is laid out in a shotgun fashion is because the wall that runs down the middle of the dining room is what separates the restaurant from the bowling alley next door. And yes, it’s as modern a bowling alley as you’ll find anywhere but, with only eight lanes, plan on a wait, especially on weekends.
Moe’s with tons of on and off street parking is on the west side of Broadway, three blocks north of Hampden.
Moe’s Original Bar B Que
3295 S. Broadway
303-781-0414
http://www.moesdenver.com/
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